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SIMRIL'S EUREKA; 




OR 



SYSTEM OF CUTTING GARMENTS 



TO ACCOMPANY THE PATENT 



Circular Measure and Shoulder Regulator, 5 




BY MILES G. SIMRIL. 



NEW- YORK ; 
J. A. FRAETAS & Co., PRINTERS, 7 SPRUCE-ST. 



1847. 




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SIMEIL'S EUREKA 



OR 



SYSTEM OF CUTTING GARMENTS 



TO ACCOMPANY THE PATENT 



"Circular Measure and Shoulder Regulator," 






BY MILES G. SIMRIL. 









NEW- YORK; 
J. A. FRAETAS & Co., PRINTERS, 7 SPRUCE-ST. 



1847. 







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Entered according to Act of Congress, A. D., 1847, by Miles G. Simril, in the Clerk's Office 
of the District Court of the Southern District of New York. 



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TO THE TAILORS OF THE UNITED STATES. 



In presenting to the trade a " new invention" it is deemed proper to say a few words by way of directing 
the attention to the difficulties it is intended to obviate, as well as to the peculiar method by which they are 
obviated. No Tailor, who has given the art of drafting the least degree of attention, has failed to discover 
that it is yet in a very limited state of improvement ; and that to attain to any degree of accuracy in fitting the 
human form is a matter dependent more upon long practised skill and experience, than upon any certain rules 
and principles. There is yet too much guess-work : too much drafting by the eye. In one stage of our labor, 
we are left solely to our skill in guessing: in another stage to certain fixed rules and proportions, which, 
although they may suit in a majority of instances, do not admit of such variations as the peculiar form and 
structure of each individual may require, and Jvre, therefore, in not a few instances, sources of positive error. — 
The young beginner has to spoil his dozens of garments and submit to numerous other impediments to his 
su2cess in business by " bad fits" and loss of time and labor in altering and amending, before he can hope to 
attain that degree of skill and experience which will enable him to guard against such mishaps. The pub- 
lisher of this invention cannot hope that he has succeeded in removing every obstacle or difficulty which 
meets the Drafter in the execution of his task. He can only hope that his invention has obviated a few of 
those difficulties, and, as he believes, a few of the most important ones. 

In an experience of many years, it has been the lot of the inventor to be often unsuccessful in his attempts to secure a correct fitting : 
and as often as such has happened, he has endeavored to trace back his steps to ascertain wherein his error lay. He has observed — and 
others doubtless have likewise observed — that bodied garments oftener fail to fit about the scye-joints and shoulders, than in any other 
parts; from which it is evident that the source of error must lie in drafting those portions of the garment. Various plans have sug- 
gested themselves for obviating particular difficulties ; but not until the plan set forth in this invention was hit upon, could he feel, whilst 
drafting, any degree of certainty that he would be successful in fitting the form for which he was drafting. He therefore presents his 
invention to the trade; believing that it furnishes a method by which the human form may be fitted with accuracy; one which is pecu- 
liarly adap ed to obviating the uncertainty which arises in drafting those portions of garments above alluded to : and which affords, not a 
fixed and invariable rule, but which adapts itself to the peculiar form and structure of each individual. 

With a view more fully to illustrate the utility of my invention, I would beg leave to point out a few of the sources of error in 
drafting by the ordinary modes, and to show how those errors are obviated in this invention. 



SEE PLATE 1— DIAGRAM 1. 

It is scarcely necessary to remark,!that it is all important to ascer- 
tain with accuracy the correct distance from the point B, through 
the centre of scye to front of scye at 0. This distance, by the most 
approved methods of drafting, is established by certain proportions 
of a measure taken from B, around scye-joint, and again back 
to B, no regard uhatcvcr being paid to the size of scye. To s°e the 
incorrectness of this method, we have but to take two persons, 
equal in all their several measures, except the measure at width of 
back and around scye : the one having width of back 6 1-2 inches, 
the other 7 1-2 inches; and the one measuring around scye 14 
inehes, the other 16 inches. Now in these two persons, the 
shoulder measure from B around scye, and again to B, will be found 
exactly the same. If. therefore, this measure be proportioned into 
halves, and thirds, and twelfths, and twenty-fourths, after the usual 
mode, these proportions will establish the same distance from B to 
0, for both persons ; for the measure being the same on both per- 
sons, its proportions will of course be the same, and give the same 
distance, when according to the actual state of the case, the two 
persons, having arm joints of different sizes and backs of different 
widths, should have a different distance from B to 0: — the one being 
properly and correctly B O, the other b o. The plan proposed is 
to measure the width of back from B to V, and the thickness or di- 
ameter of scye added to this will be the correct distance from V to 
0; and it is at once perceived, that if to the measured width of 
back, you add the thickness or diameter of the " circular measure" 
— it being set to the exact size of scye — you cannot fad to have the 
correct distance from B to 0. 

In like manner the distance from M to C is established, by certain 
proportions of the same shoulder-measure from B around scye and 
again to B. This measure, as in former case, being the same in 
both persons, will give the same proportions, and consequently the 
same distance from M to C, and from m to c. This will locate the 
scye in the same place, and make it of the same size in both gar- 
ments, when according to the actual state of the case there should 
be 2 inches difference. For this difference, this invention makes 
provision, the " circutar-measure" being not only the exact size of 
scye, but also being in the correct position and of the correct shape. 

Now it is not an unsupposable case, that two persons, although 
agreeing in all other proportions, may yet differ very much in width 
of back and around scye. The observations of every day, teaches 
that the hands, the feet, the head, of persons may differ, and the 
same persons agree in all other proportions. It is then a fair deduc- 
tion, that the width of back and the size of scye, as well as its loca- 
tion on the body, are as liable to vary as any other parts or portions 
of the body. It comes fully within the experience of every Tailor 
that persons do so differ ; and it is by drafting without attending to 
this. difference that many errors are committed. 



It is deemed unnecessary to enter into any further exposition of 
the errors and uncertainties to which other systems are subject. 



SEE PLATE 1— DIAGRAM 2. 

This diagram is intended to illustrate the principal use of the 
"Shoulder-Regulator," as attached to the circular measure: by 
means of which, in drafting, the shoulder is pitched forward or 
backward, according to the shape of the person. 

Suppose two persons to be of the same size in all the several 
measures, excepr the one from A at top of back to C at bottom of 
scye, and that by that measure one is 8 inches, the other 7 1-2 
inches. Let the plain black lines represent the draft for the one who 
measures 7 1-2 inches from A to C ; and the dotted lines represent 
the draft for the one who measures 8 inches. If now the distance 
from C be increased to a on back A, it will increase to the same ex- 
tent from C to p on back B. You will observe that all of the back 
B does not move either towards you or from you ; but the distance 
only is increased from C to p ; and the back moves to the right or 
left on line C. You will notice, as one arm of the Regulator is 
raised at A, top of back, it throws point P towards you, and as 
shoulder measure No. 1 will then commence higher up from C on 
back A, a greater proportion of the measure will be taken up in 
passing round the circular measure from a to Q, which leaves a less 
proportion to be applied from Q to p, and thereby shortens the 
shoulder strap from to p. In like manner, you will observe that 
if the arm of Regulator at A be lowered towards C on back A, the 
other arm would throw point P from you : and as measure No. 1 
would, in that case, commence at a point lower than A, it would 
terminate at a point higher than P, and thereby lengthen the 
shoulder strap and throw back B to the right. Observe, that as the 
shoulder strap is shortened and thrown towards you, the point T, 
at end of line S T, is sunk lower ; and as the shoulder strap is 
lengthened, and thrown from you, the same point T is raised. 

These few particulars will give some general idea of the nature 
and utility of my invention. Its practical operation and the many 
advantages which incidentally arise from its employment, can only 
be ascertained by a careful attention to the directions hereafter given 
for its application in drafting. 

It will not be attempted in this publication, to set forth a complete 
system of dtafting all the several garments. This would but en- 
hance the cost, without by any means being an indispensable accom- 
paniment to the invention. 

The inventor flatters himself that his invention will be found, not 
only a convenient arrangement for applying the scye and shoulder 
measures combined, but an arrangement which secures the best pos- 
sible application of those measures; and guards against the number- 
less uncertainties and inaccuracies which attends the usual mode6, 
and which it requires the greatest skill to avoid. 



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METHOD FOR TAKING MEASURES. 



(See Plate 2— Fig. I.) 



In taking measures, the person must stand in his natural position 
with his coat buttoned. 

Take the instrument called the T, and place its long arm under 
the person's right arm, and the two short arms to range with the 
centre back seam of the person's coat, as represented by instrument 
marked XXX on Figure I. With chalk make a mark on the back 
seam at the notch of the T, as at C on Figure 1. 

With the measuring tape, take the measure of scye-joint, called 
the " scye-measure," by passing the tape around the joint in the di- 
rection of the dotted lines from c to a on Figure 1. (Note, — That 
portion of the measure which is visible on the figure — viz, from c 
to a — should be parallel with the centre back seam A F.) Whilst 
the tape is in this position, you will draw a mark on the person's 
coat with chalk, along that edge of the tape which is next to the 
back-seam. Set down size of scye-measure. 

You will next take the measure from B to V, that is, from the 
back-seam to the chalk mark which was made along the edge of 
tape, as above directed. This is called the " width of back ;" and 
it must be taken with the arm hanging naturally, as raising the arm 
would stretch the distance. Note down this measure. 

You will now raise the arm at right angles with the body, and 
take the measure to the elbow and to the hand, and also the size 
or measure round the elbow and hand." 

In the next place, make a mark on the person's back at A, i. e. 
the socket bone ; one at D, a point opposite to the blade bone ; 
one at E, the ho'low of waist ; one at F, the extreme length 
or waist ; and one at G, the hollow of side above the hip, op- 
posite to E and some 6 or 7 inches from it. Place the end of 



tape on socket-bone at A, and note the distances of measures from 
A to C ; from A to D ; from A to E ; and from A to F ; and also tc 
the bend of knee, lower or higher as fashion may direct. 

You will now hold one end of tape at A, and take the following 
measures : 

Measure No. 1. — Pass the tape beginning at A , and passing over 
the right shoulder in front, and under the arm and back again to A. 
— (See No. 1 on Figure.) 

Measure No. 2. — The tape being still around the arm as above, 
you will lower your hand till it passes over the blade-bone to the 
mark made at D. — (See No. 2 on Figure.) 

Measure No. 3. — Lower your hand still further until the tape 
reaches the mark made at E. — (See No. 3 on Figure.) 

Measure No. 4. — Lower your hand still more until the tape 
reaches mark made at F. — (See No. 4 on Figure.) 

Measure No. 5. — Lower your hand until the tape comes to maTk 
at G and to 17- — (See No. 5 on Figure.) 

Measure No. 6. — Bring your hand to the front, and take measure 
from A, passing over the shoulder and down the breast, to length 
in front. — See Figure 2. 

Measure No. 7. — Take the distance from E, hollow of waist, tc 
G, the hollow of side, above the hip. Note down the several 
measures. 

Take the breast measure and waist measure, passing the tape 
around the body at breast and waist, under the coat. 

Note : To obtain point B on figure from which " width of back" 
is taken, you will go up from point C a distance equal to a fractio-n, 
less than one sixth of scye-measure. 



DIRECTIONS FOR ADJUSTING THE INSTRUMENT. 

(See Plate 2 — Circular Measure.) 



Having finished taking the measures, you will now proceed to ad- 
just the instrument to the exact size of the scye-measure. 

Suppose the person has measured 15 inches around the scye-joint. 
In that case you wi'l slide the outside lap of the " circular measure" 
until its extremities comes to the inch-mark 15 (marked on the 
inside lap) as at b on diagram. You will notice thatone of the cross- 
bars slides in the grooves of the ring: slide this end of the bar along 
the grooves until the index (I) comes to number 15 (marked on the 



outside lap). This done, fasten the thumb-screw (k). You will 
next slide the upper cross-bar (hk) of the diameter until the end of it 
comes to number 1 5, (marked on the under bar) as at mem Diagram. 
Then move the centre-piece, the index mark comes to number 15 
(marked on upper bar) as at n on diagram. This done, fasten the 
thumb- screw \i). 

The circular measure will now represent a scye-measure of 15 
inches, with the vertex of the shoulder-regulator in the tentre. 



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